How to Dye Silk from Start to Finish (4 Ways)

I’ve been dyeing fabric for over a decade. I even dyed my handmade silk wedding dress! Here are 4 ways to dye silk fabric, how to choose the right method for your project, and step-by-step instructions.

Contents list:

What’s the best way to dye silk?
Can you dye silk dresses, clothes, curtains, etc?
My fabric is a blend of silk and other fibers. Does this have any impact?
Tips to know before you start dyeing
How to dye silk using Acid Dyes or Fiber-Reactive dyes on a stovetop
How to dye silk using Fiber-Reactive Dyes without a stovetop
How to dye silk using box dyes like Rit, Dylon, or iDye
How to dye silk fabric with natural dyes
How to dye silk chiffon and organza
After I dye my fabric, will the color be permanent? Will it bleed when washed?

What’s the best way to dye silk fabric?

There are 4 main types of dye that you can use for silk. They all have their pros and cons. Instructions for each are included below.

Acid Dyes: Acid dyes are the best and most reliable choice for dyeing silk. They work on any protein fiber. This means any fiber created by an animal: wool, alpaca, mohair, silk, cashmere, and even feathers! Oddly, nylon can also be dyed with acid dyes, even though it’s not technically a protein fiber. This dye, combined with the activator (citric acid or vinegar) creates a chemical bond with the fiber that produces a vibrant, permanent color on your fabric.

Fiber-Reactive Dyes: These dyes are created for a different type of fiber, but they can still be used on silk in some cases. Fiber-reactive dyes (also called procion dyes) are primarily for cellulose fibers. This means any fiber created by a plant: cotton, linen, hemp, tencel, bamboo, and viscose. Some adjustments need to be made to use fiber-reactive dyes with silk, but it is possible. See the Fiber Reactive Dye section below for more details.

Box Dyes: Dyes like Rit, Dylon, and iDye are home dyeing solutions if you don’t want to invest in a big dye setup. They’re fine for one-off projects where you’re not too tied to the exact shade you’re dyeing. They tend to be less reliable, and they also tend to fade faster and bleed in the wash. Personally, I avoid these dyes, but they can be useful in some cases.

Natural Dyes: Natural dyeing can be a delightful way to add eco-friendly color to any natural fiber including silk, and a fun way to combine a love for gardening with sewing! There’s a huge variety in the types of natural dyes, mordants, and the results from each, so if you’re new to natural dyes, the best way to learn is to start experimenting. I would not recommend this method if you’re seeking a specific color – more if you’re happy with a color range and looking to experiment with the process.

Can you dye silk dresses, clothes, curtains, etc?

While any silk fabric can be dyed, there are a few things to keep in mind when you’re assessing pre-made items like curtains, garments, or accessories.

Is the entire item 100% silk?

The biggest obstacle is that you’ll need to be 100% certain of the fiber content of all the different materials in your item. For example, let’s say you’re dyeing a lined dress with a decorated waistband. While the main fabric might be silk, the lining could be a different fiber like viscose or cotton, the thread is most likely polyester, and the embellishment on the waistband could be made from different materials as well.

All fibers will take dye differently – and different fibers require different treatments – so if the item you’re hoping to dye is made from multiple fibers, you may need to go beyond throwing it in a single dye bath.

Is the item washable?

Keep in mind that any dye option you choose will involve submerging your item in water, followed by some form of washing to remove excess dye. Garments that can’t withstand this type of immersive treatment (for example, a tag that says “dry clean only” or an item with a lot of surface embellishment) may not be suitable for dyeing. They can shrink, lose their sheen, or end up permanently distorted.

If you can, try snipping a small sample from a less noticeable place. Test dye this before you commit the whole garment.

Do you want an even color?

If your goal is to achieve an even color uptake on a pre-made garment, you’ll need a dye bucket that’s large enough for your garment to swim freely. And you’ll need to spend extra time stirring and agitating your dye bath to ensure the dye reaches the entire garment.

Areas with dense gathers are likely to need extra attention to encourage the dye to penetrate the fabric, since it’s bunched together there. With cooler dye baths, use long dish gloves to submerge your hands in your dye bucket and massage the fabric. Tongs will work for hotter dye baths.

Does the item have stains?

Pre-washing fabric is always important when dyeing, but it’s especially important when dyeing pre-made items. Pay close attention to armpits, as sweat and deodorant stains can affect the way dye is absorbed, even if these stains are barely noticeable beforehand.

If you’re dyeing a garment to cover up stains, try a darker color to combat this, or go for a purposefully uneven look like a scrunch or tie dye.

My fabric is a blend of silk and other fibers. Does this have any impact?

Blended fabrics can add a layer of complexity when dyeing, but it depends on what’s in the blend. If the silk is blended with another protein fiber (like wool or nylon), it can still be dyed normally and you can expect a relatively even fabric uptake.

If it’s blended with something outside of that family – a cellulose fiber like cotton, or a polyester – the results are more likely to vary significantly from the dye swatch. There are a lot of things that can impact this, so let’s break down some tips…

Tips for dyeing silk-blend fabrics:

As a rule, blends that contain more than 35% polyester should be treated as a synthetic.
Not all blends are created equal. Some are fully blended, while others contain different bits. For example, lurex woven inbetween silk fibers, or a different warp and weft. Keep an eye on the way the fabric is constructed and consider how this changes the way the dye will be absorbed.
Nylon tends to absorb colors faster and darker than other fibers. If you’re aiming for a light color, it might be best to start with less dye than suggested.
If you’re dyeing a silk blended with a cellulose fiber, keep in mind that color shift is common. This will depend on the colors chosen, but as an example, a bright red fiber-reactive dye might skew a bit orange on the silk, while remaining true red on the cotton. This can be a very cool effect, but less so when it’s unexpected, so remember the golden rule:
When in doubt, dye a swatch first!

Tips to know before you start dyeing:

I’ve been dyeing fabric for over a decade, and the results still surprise me! Dyeing is a tricky skill to master, but even if you don’t get it perfect, you’re still in for a fun time. Here are some tricks I’ve learned that will increase your chances of success, and keep you and your kitchen safe.

Protect your countertops with a sheet of plastic and old newspaper on top. The plastic will keep everything contained, and the newspaper will absorb anything that does happen to spill. You can wipe down the plastic and reuse it next time.
Immediately wipe up any spilled dye powder before it has a chance to become airborne or land on something it might stain.
Protect your hands with long kitchen gloves. You can use surgical gloves in a pinch, but they’re not as long so you might get dye on your forearms. I also suggest an apron to protect your clothes.
When you’re agitating dye baths, try to vary your mixing methods to get an even result. Use tongs, and carefully tease apart layers of fabric that are pinched or stuck together. Keep pushing any parts of the fabric that float to the surface back down.
Consider ‘overdye’. If you want to achieve a color with some fun textures and depth, try creating, say, a purple by dyeing your fabric red first and then blue. This often yields different results than mixing blue and red together, and it can be gorgeous.
Write everything down! At a minimum, record the weight of your fabric, weight of dye, weight of fixative/mordant, and the amount of water you used. You can also record the temperature of the dye bath and the length of time it spent in the dye. You never know when you’ll come up with the perfect dye recipe that you’re just *dyeing* to recreate!

How to dye silk using Acid dyes or Fiber-Reactive dyes on a stovetop:

Acid dyes are the best and most reliable method for dyeing silk. They take a bit of setup (a few ingredients and some special tools), but if you’re looking for an accurate color match, predictable results, and a dye that will stand the test of time – Acid dyes are your new best friend.

Fiber-reactive dyes are covered in more depth in the next section, but you can also use fiber-reactive dyes with this method if needed.

What supplies you need:

Acid dye, OR fiber-reactive dye plus salt.
Dye activator: Citric Acid or White Vinegar (from your local supermarket, both work equally well).
A dye pot made from a non-reactive metal like aluminum.
Rubber gloves.
A set of teaspoons.
Dust mask.
A small plastic cup and stirring stick (I like a plastic knife) to mix dye solution.
Tongs, a stirring spoon, or something similar to stir your dye bath.
Optional: Kitchen scale (gram increments) and mini scale (hundreths of gram increments) and a thermometer.

dharma acid dye pots and other dyeing tools — Dharma acid dyes for my silk wedding dress. Photo credit: Kat Waters

Step 1: Pre-wash & dry your silk item

Pre-wash and dry your item using detergent. If it’s a pre-made item, pay special attention to stains as these could affect color uptake.

Step 2: Record the weight of your dry item

Weigh the item you’re dyeing and write down its total dry weight.

Step 3: Calculate how much dye you need

Your dye will come with a suggested recipe based on this total weight, like “2% of Weight of Goods”. This means in order to get the swatch color, you need to calculate 2% of the total dry weight of your item.

This calculation is the (Suggested percentage x Total dry weight) / 100
For example, if our item’s dry weight is 150g, and we need 2% dye, the formula is (2×150)/100 for 3g of dye.

If you want to avoid the maths, Dharma Trading has a calculator that tells you how much dye to use based on the dye color and weight of the item.

Note: If you don’t have scales, you can estimate with tablespoons but the colors may not be exact.

Step 4: Pre-soak your item

Fill your sink (or a bowl) with warm water and pre-soak your item.

a tub of water, and dyeing supplies — My dye set up. Photo credit: Kat Waters

Step 5: Mix your dye

Put a dust mask on before you open the jar of dye. Most powder dyes are lung irritants, so be safe.

Place your dye into the plastic cup, and add hot (but not boiling) water gradually. Mix the dye until it becomes a paste and then a liquid. You can strain this liquid through muslin if any granules of dye are left undissolved. Once the dye is dissolved and the lid is back on your jar, it’s safe to remove the dust mask.

Step 6: Add your item and water to the dye pot. Heat them.

Add your item to the dye pot, along with enough water for your item to swim freely. Heat the water to 185 degrees Fahrenheit (85 degrees celsius). If you don’t have a thermometer, you’re aiming for the stage just before boiling, where small bubbles are forming on the base of the pot but not quite bubbling at the surface.

Step 7: Add the dye activator (citric acid or white vinegar) and dye mix

If using fiber-reactive dye, first add 3-9 tablespoons of salt per 450g of fabric (use more for more intense colors).

Then add 1/4 cup of vinegar (or 1 tablespoon of citric acid) per 450g fabric. Shuffle your fabric to the side with your tongs or spoon so you’re not pouring directly on the fabric. Mix thoroughly.

Finally, add the cup of dye in the same way – pushing the fabric to the side to avoid pouring it directly. This helps to avoid dark splotches. Mix thoroughly. You can swish a bit of extra hot water in your dye cup and add it to your dye bath to make sure you get it all!

Step 8: Stir frequently until the dye is absorbed. Turn off the heat.

Maintain the temperature and stir frequently until the dye is absorbed – the water in the dye bath will be clear if you’ve done your math right! This is called the “exhaust”. Once the dye has exhausted (or even if it hasn’t and it’s the color you want), turn off the heat.

Step 9: Remove your item from the pot and rinse it

Remove your item from the dye bath. Rinse it under hot water and then cool water. Wash it with a bit of hand soap and make sure the water runs clear.

Step 10: Machine wash your item

Depending on your fabric, you may wish to follow the in-sink rinse with a run through the washing machine, or even just pop it in for a spin cycle, but the rest is up to you! Enjoy your newly dyed fabric.

How to dye silk using Fiber-Reactive Dyes without a stovetop

While acid dyes are the most reliable way to get a consistent, accurate color on silk, there are some occasions where you won’t be able to use a stovetop. Your fabric might be too delicate for sustained heat, or perhaps the item you’re dyeing is too big for a pot. In these cases, the following method will work – but there are two things to keep in mind.

First, color-shift is common when using fiber-reactive dyes on silk. Reds can shift to orange, purples to reds or blues, etc. Dye a swatch first if accurate color is important. Colors that are mixed can also separate into their component colors.

Second, soda ash will chemically “scrub” the surface of the fabric. It’s not enough to damage the integrity of the fibers, but the result will be a “sand washed” silk effect, so don’t use this method if you want your satins to remain shiny! It won’t matter if your silk already has a matte finish like chiffon, for example.

What supplies you need:

Fiber-reactive dye
Salt
Soda ash
A dye vessel like a plastic bucket, large enough for your garment to swim freely
Rubber gloves
A set of teaspoons
Dust mask
A small plastic cup and stirring stick (I like a plastic knife) to mix dye solution
Tongs, a stirring spoon, or something similar to stir your dye bath
Optional: Kitchen scale (gram increments) and mini scale (hundreths of gram increments) and a thermometer

Step 1: Pre-wash & dry your silk item

Pre-wash and dry your item using detergent. If it’s a pre-made item, pay special attention to stains as these could affect color uptake.

Step 2: Record the weight of your dry item

Weigh the item you’re dyeing and write down its total dry weight.

Step 3: Calculate how much dye you need

This calculation is the (Suggested percentage x Total dry weight) / 100
For example, if our item’s dry weight is 150g, and we need 2% dye, the formula is (2×150)/100 for 3g of dye.

If you want to avoid the maths, Dharma Trading has a calculator that tells you how much dye to use based on the dye color and weight of the item.

Note: If you don’t have scales, you can estimate with tablespoons but the colors may not be exact. With fiber-reactive dyes, a good rule of thumb is to use 1 tablespoon of dye per pound of fabric. This isn’t a perfect rule, but it’s a great place to start!

Step 4: Pre-soak your item

Fill your sink (or a bowl) with warm water and pre-soak your item.

Step 5: Mix your dye

Put a dust mask on before you open the jar of dye. Most powder dyes are lung irritants, so be safe.

Step 6: Add your item and water to the dye pot

Add your item to the dye pot, along with enough water for your item to swim freely. I like to use water from my tap that’s as hot as it’ll go.

Step 7: Add salt, the dye activator (soda ash), and dye mix

First, add 3-9 tablespoons of salt per 450g of fabric (use more for more intense colors).

Then add as many teaspoons of soda ash as you have tablespoons of salt (this is ⅓ of the amount of salt you’ve used). Stir until all the granules have dissolved.

Finally, add the dye. Be careful not to pour directly on the fabric, as this can cause dark spots.

Step 8: Stir frequently until the dye is absorbed

Stir frequently for the first 30 minutes, and then every once in a while for the next several hours. To get a dark, even color, you’ll want to leave the item in the dye for at least four hours, or overnight.

pink silk fabric swimming in a plastic bucket and being dyed — My silk fabric in a plastic bucket. Photo credit: Kat Waters

Step 9: Remove your item from the pot and rinse it

Remove your item from the dye bath. Rinse it under warm water and then cool water. Wash it with a bit of hand soap and make sure the water runs clear.

How to dye silk using box dyes like Rit, Dylon, or iDye:

If we think of fiber-reactive and acid dyes as “specialists”, box dyes are generalists. They do an average job on lots of different fibers, whereas the former two do an excellent job on specific fibers. If you’re looking for a one-off dye project with only a few required materials, box dyes can be a good option. However, keep in mind that the resulting colors may be less accurate, they tend to fade faster, and there’s a risk of bleeding during washing.

These dyes are usually made from various mixtures of acid, fiber-reactive, and sometimes other dyes to create a multipurpose dye with a bit of everything. This means the concentration of the dye you need to work on your silk will be lower, but they can be useful if you’re dyeing a pre-made garment made from many types of fibers.

The three brands of box dye explored here are Rit, Dylon, and iDye. Personally, I’d almost always recommend pure acid dyes for silk. But if you’re choosing between box dyes, I’ve had the least reliable results with Rit, and the best results with iDye. This option seems to be more permanent (in my experience) and the colors I’ve gotten have been the most accurate of the three.

What supplies you need:

Box dye of choice
Vinegar (for Rit or iDye) or Salt (for Dylon)
A dye vessel like a plastic bucket, or a stainless steel pot
Rubber gloves
Tongs, a stirring spoon, or something similar to stir your dye bath
A set of measuring spoons, but since you’re only using these for salt or vinegar, you don’t need a special “dye only” set – your regular kitchen ones are fine.
Optional: a kitchen scale to weigh your fabric.

Step 1: Pre-wash & dry your silk item

Pre-wash and dry your item using detergent. If it’s a pre-made item, pay special attention to stains as these could affect color uptake.

Step 2: Calculate how much dye you need

Once dry, follow the package instructions to estimate the amount of dye needed. Generally, this is 1 or 2 packets per pound of fabric, but it differs by brand and color chosen.

Step 3: Add your item and water to the dye pot

Add fabric to your dye vessel, and fill it with enough hot water for the fabric to swim freely. These dyes can be used in a bucket with hot water, or in a pot on the stove. Using the stovetop method is the best way to get brighter and darker colors.

Step 4: Add the dye activator (salt or vinegar) and dye packet

Add: 200ml vinegar (RIT), 78ml vinegar (iDye), or 10 tablespoons of salt (Dylon) – per packet of dye. Mix thoroughly.

Then add dye, being careful not to pour directly on the fabric as this can cause dark spots.

Step 5: Stir frequently until the dye is absorbed

Stir constantly for the first 10 minutes, then frequently for at least an hour. If you’re going for a pastel color, this may take less time. These dyes can be left for several hours or overnight. The dye won’t exhaust fully, there will still be some color in the water when the fabric is done.

Step 6: Remove your item from the pot and rinse it

Remove your fabric from the dye bath and rinse it in hot water first, then cool water until it runs clear. Wash it with a bit of hand soap.

Optional: Rit recommends washing your item in a color fixative for maximum color-fastness, which you can find here.

How to dye silk fabric with natural dyes:

I have step-by-step instructions for dyeing silk naturally in a separate post.

How to dye silk chiffon and organza:

There are some things that make dyeing silk chiffon and organza easier than other types of silk, and some that make them more difficult. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

Chiffon and organza are quite loosely woven, so the dye will easily flow through layers of fabric. This is very helpful in achieving an even dye color, but more tricky if you’re looking for variation.
If you’re aiming for a pastel color with acid dyes, you can slow down the dye uptake process by reducing the amount of citric acid in the initial dye bath, and slowly adding more as required.
These fabrics are more fragile when wet, so be careful not to snag them with your tongs.
As these fabrics are so lightweight, you’ll need significantly less dye than you might think to achieve the color you’re after. I would definitely recommend investing in a mini scale before dyeing chiffon and organza.

When I dyed the first round of chiffon for my wedding dress, I went much too dark, even with the scale, and had to start over with more fabric. Remember, it’s always easier to add more than it is to take away! Bleach will damage the integrity of fine silks, and it also removes some of the soft drape we love so much about this fiber, so be careful!

After I dye my fabric, will the color be permanent? Will it bleed when washed?

It depends on the method and type of dye you use.

Type of dye	Color results
Acid & fiber-reactive dyes	Permanent color. It won’t bleed when washed. There’s a small chance that it will slightly fade after many washes. It can be affected by sun & chemical bleaching.
Box dyes like Rit & Dylon	The color is more likely to fade & bleed when washed.
Natural dyes	Mixed results, depending on which natural dye you use. Eg. Indigo & tumeric will fade over time.

Acid and Fiber-reactive dyes are a bit more complicated, but the result is a chemical process that permanently binds the color to the fiber. As long as you’ve thoroughly rinsed the dye out of your fabric, the dye will be permanent and it won’t bleed when washed. It won’t be impervious to sun bleaching (or chemical bleaching) – and it may fade a bit over many, many washes (though this is rare) – but that chemical bond is extremely strong.

Rit dyes and some of the Dylon varieties are designed to do an average job on a lot of fabrics, rather than a very good job on a select few fabrics. Although you can definitely get good results with these dyes, they are more likely to fade faster and to bleed in the wash.

Natural dyes are a mix, again depending on what you choose. For example, Indigo creates an extremely strong dye, but it’s still ultimately a surface dye, not a chemical bond. That’s the reason jeans get that lovely worn-in look after years of wear! Turmeric dye is another example that creates a vibrant golden yellow, but fades over time. Using different mordants can increase the color-fastness of natural dyes, but each one is so individual that it’s best to look up the treatment methods for the natural dye you plan to use.

What to read next…

This article was written by Kat Waters and edited by Sara Maker. It was originally published on 24 February 2022 and has since been updated.

Kat Waters (author)
Kat has been sewing since her feet could reach the pedals, starting with quilts she made with her mom and eventually graduating to garments. She now makes everything she wears, occasionally teaches classes, and shares her projects on social media. Highlights include her wedding dress, shoemaking, and a love for almost any fabric that comes in hot pink! Read more…

Sources

The following sources were referenced in February 2022.