If your sewing project calls for a zipper that’s shorter in length than the one you have, you can easily shorten your existing zipper. Depending on the material and style of your zipper, you’ll need to choose the appropriate technique for shortening.
In general, there are two ways to shorten a zipper: from the top of the teeth, or from the bottom. When shortening a zipper from the top, you’ll either need to create new top stoppers to stop the zipper pull from coming out of the zipper, or you’ll need the top free edge to be sewn in a seam (like a waistband). If you’re shortening a zipper from the bottom, then you’ll need to create a new bottom stopper.
Depending on the material of the zipper teeth, you can form top or bottom stoppers in different ways, including sewing them by hand or by machine, clamping on new metal stoppers, removing and relocating the existing stoppers, or melting the plastic teeth to create a stopper.
Contents list:
How to shorten a:
- Nylon coil zipper
- Invisible zipper
- Chunky molded plastic zipper
- Metal zipper
- Separating / open-end zipper
How to make new stoppers:
- By hand
- With a sewing machine
- Make a metal zipper stopper
- Make a fabric tab stopper
- By melting the plastic teeth
Identify the type of zipper you have
There are 5 main types of zippers you’ll encounter in your sewing projects. Each material and design requires a slightly different approach to shorten the zipper and create new stoppers, so the first step is to identify what type of zipper you’re working with.
Nylon coil / all-purpose plastic zippers
They have lightweight nylon coil teeth that are sewn to a cotton or polyester zipper tape. The zipper teeth are usually quite narrow, but you can find wider versions if you look for them. They are flexible and lightweight, making them perfect for skirts, trousers, dresses, zippered pouches, etc.
How to shorten nylon coil zips: You can easily shorten them by sewing a new bottom stopper by hand or by machine, installing a replacement metal stopper to the top or the bottom, or simply cutting the top off if the top is going to be enclosed within another piece of fabric (i.e. a waistband).
Invisible zippers
They are made out of the same materials as nylon coil zippers, but the zipper teeth are hidden at the back of the zipper and the zipper tape is usually a bit softer. When sewn correctly, they completely disappear into the seam, giving you an invisible closure.
How to shorten invisible zips: They can be shortened from the top or the bottom, by sewing a new stopper or installing a replacement metal stopper.
Molded / chunky plastic zippers (also called VISLON zippers by YKK)
These have chunky plastic teeth that lock together. They usually come in larger sizes, and they’re often used on jackets, sweatshirts, and bags.
How to shorten chunky plastic zips: They are best shortened from the top by removing the excess teeth with pliers and making a new top stopper using thread or by melting the plastic teeth, but you can also shorten them from the bottom by sewing a new bottom stopper or installing a replacement metal stopper.
Metal zippers
They have metal teeth that are clamped into the zipper tape. They are strong and flexible, which makes them great for heavy-duty projects like jeans, bags, workwear clothes, and so on.
How to shorten metal zips: They’re a bit harder to shorten compared to other types of zippers, but you can shorten them from the top or the bottom with a little patience and strength. In both ways, you’ll need to remove the excess metal teeth and the stopper using pliers and / or a wire cutter, and clamp the existing or the replacement metal stopper(s) back on.
Separating / open-end zippers
They have a special locking mechanism at the bottom of the zipper teeth that allows the two sides of the zip to separate and then join back together. The teeth can be made out of metal, molded plastic, or nylon coil.
How to shorten open-end zips: They are always shortened from the top in order to preserve the mechanism at the bottom, but the technique you’ll use to cut the excess tape and create new top stoppers will depend on the material of the zipper teeth. Depending on the material, you can sew a new stopper by hand or by machine, install a metal replacement stopper, or melt the plastic zipper teeth to create a new plastic stopper.
How to measure and mark your new zipper length:
Supplies
- Your zipper
- A ruler or a measuring tape
- A pen or fabric marking tool
Step-by-step instructions:
- Lay your zipper on the table, and place your ruler or measuring tape on your zipper.
- Measure and mark your new desired length. We’ll refer to this mark as the first mark in the tutorial sections below.
- If you want to shorten the zipper from the top: Measure up from the bottom stopper, and leave a mark at the new, correct measurement.
- If you want to shorten the zipper from the bottom: Measure down from the top stoppers, and mark where you want the new bottom stopper to be.
- Once you have the actual length marked, I’d also recommend marking about 1” (2.5 cm) above (for shortening from the top) or below (for shortening from the bottom) the mark to know where you’ll need to cut the tape. We’ll refer to this mark as the second mark in the tutorial sections below.
Tip:
If your sewing project / pattern calls for a specific length of zipper, keep in mind that this measurement is always taken between the top and the bottom stopper, and not between the ends of the zipper tape. When you’re shortening your zipper to the specifications of a pattern, you’ll need to measure from one of the stoppers and mark the location of a new stopper.
How to shorten a nylon coil zipper:
Supplies
- Nylon coil zipper (with the new length marked on the tape using the tutorial above)
- All-purpose scissors
Step-by-step instructions:
- Start by forming the top or bottom stopper on the mark that shows your new finished zipper length (your first mark).
- Once the stopper is securely on, cut the excess zipper tape off at the second mark (it’s 1″ away from the new stopper), using a pair of sharp all-purpose scissors.
Tip:
I don’t recommend using fabric shears for these types of zippers – you’ll be cutting through the hard nylon teeth along with the tape and this may dull your nice fabric scissors. Instead, opt for all-purpose or craft scissors.
How to shorten an invisible zipper:
Supplies
- Invisible / concealed zipper (with the new length marked on the tape using the tutorial above)
- All-purpose scissors
Step-by-step instructions:
- Start by forming the top or bottom stopper on the mark showing your new finished zipper length.
- Once the stopper is securely on, cut the excess zipper tape off using a pair of sharp all-purpose scissors.
How to shorten a chunky molded plastic zipper:
Supplies
- Molded plastic zipper (with the new length marked on the tape using the tutorial above)
- All-purpose or fabric scissors
- Pliers
Step-by-step instructions:
- Using pliers, remove the plastic teeth between the two marks you made (one showing where the stopper will go, and the other showing the new end of the zipper tape).
- Cut the excess tape off using a pair of scissors.
How to shorten a metal zipper:
Supplies
- Metal zipper (with the new length marked on the tape using the tutorial above)
- All-purpose or fabric scissors
- Pliers and wire cutter
Step-by-step instructions:
- Start by removing the metal teeth between the two marks you made (one showing where the stopper will go, and the other showing the new end of the zipper tape). Use a wire cutter and pliers to unclamp the teeth and remove them. Just a heads up: this will take quite a bit of strength.
- Carefully remove the bottom or top stoppers, making sure you don’t cut through them or deform them too much.
- Cut the excess tape off using a pair of scissors.
- Put the stopper(s) back on.
Tips:
- I found that the easiest way to remove the metal teeth is to grab a single tooth with a pair of pliers, bend the zipper at that tooth, hold the zipper tape with a scrap piece of fabric to protect your hands, and pull the tooth directly out from the tape, trying to maintain a 90-degree angle. If you move the tooth back and forth with your pliers, chances are you’ll end up damaging and fraying the zipper tape.
- If you do fray the zipper tape as you’re removing the teeth, you can trim the excess threads off and run a lighter through the frayed portion to neaten it up.
How to shorten a separating / open-end zipper (from the top):
Supplies
- Separating zipper (with the new length marked on the tape using the tutorial above)
- All-purpose scissors
- Pliers (if the zipper has metal or chunky plastic teeth)
Step-by-step instructions:
If the teeth are made out of nylon coil:
- Start by forming new stoppers at the marks you made earlier on both sides.
- Once the new top stoppers are in place, cut the excess zipper tape off at the second mark you made – about 1” (2.5 cm) above your new top stoppers.
If the teeth are made out of chunky plastic or metal:
- Start by removing the excess plastic or metal teeth between the two marks you made using pliers and / or a wire cutter.
- Cut the excess zipper tape off at the second mark you made, which is about 1” (2.5 cm) above the new uppermost teeth.
- Apply / make new top stoppers.
Different ways to make new stoppers:
How to make a zipper stopper & finish the ends by hand:
Uses
- Forming bottom or top stoppers on:
- Nylon coil and invisible zippers,
- Molded plastic zippers,
- Metal zippers.
- Forming top stoppers on separating zippers.
Supplies
- Hand sewing needle
- All-purpose polyester thread
- Beeswax (optional)
Step-by-step instructions:
- Thread your needle, and bring the two ends of the thread together. Tie them in a double knot.
- For forming a bottom stopper: At the mark you made showing the location of the new stopper, come up from under the zipper, right next to the zipper teeth (for nylon coil / invisible zippers) or just below the last remaining zipper teeth (for molded plastic / metal zippers). Go back down at the mark, on the other side of the teeth. Repeat this step 5-10 times until a secure thread base is formed at the bottom, and the zipper pull can’t slide past it.
- For forming a top stopper: Unzip your zipper, and come up from under the zipper at the mark you made, right next to the teeth (for nylon coil / invisible zippers) or above the uppermost teeth (for plastic / metal zippers). Loop your thread around the teeth and come back up through the same point, forming whip stitches around the teeth or the tape. Repeat this step 5-10 times until the zipper pull cannot go past the new thread stopper. Repeat on the other side of the zipper.
Tips:
- For a stronger finish, you can run your thread through a block of beeswax and melt the wax onto the thread using your iron before the sewing process.
How to make a zipper stopper with a sewing machine:
Uses
- Forming bottom stoppers on:
- Nylon coil and invisible zippers,
- Molded plastic zippers,
- Metal zippers.
Supplies
- Sewing machine with the appropriate needle. If you’re not sure, try the standard 80/12 size.
- All-purpose polyester thread
Step-by-step instructions:
- Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch with a length of 0 (or as low as your machine will go, for me it’s a 0.4) and a width that’s slightly wider than the zipper teeth.
- Place the zipper under the presser foot.
- Using the hand wheel, slowly drop the needle to make sure the needle is piercing the tape right next to the zipper teeth (for nylon coil / invisible zippers) or right under the last remaining teeth (for plastic / metal zippers).
- Once you make sure the width of the zigzag and the position of the zipper is correct, sew 5-10 zigzag stitches to form a secure thread base.
How to make a metal zipper stopper:
Uses
- Forming bottom or top stoppers on
- Metal zippers
- Molded plastic zippers
- Forming top stoppers on separating zippers
Supplies
- The metal stopper(s) taken off a metal zipper OR new, replacement metal stoppers (here’s an example of a replacement bottom stopper and top stopper, and another example from Amazon)
- Pliers
Step-by-step instructions:
How to install top stoppers:
- Using pliers, grab an existing or new metal top stopper. Push the metal prongs that are coming out of the stopper into the zipper tape, at the first mark you made.
- Once the tape is completely pierced and the metal prongs of the stopper are fully inserted, clamp and bend all the prongs to wrap them around the zipper tape / zipper teeth. Squeeze the stopper with your pliers to secure everything into place.
How to install a bottom stopper:
- Grab an existing or replacement metal bottom stopper with your pliers, and position it at the first mark you made, on the right side of the zipper.
- Push the spiky metal prongs of the bottom stopper to the back of the zipper tape.
- Bend the metal prongs inwards, towards the center of the zipper.
Note:
If you decide to purchase replacement metal stoppers, you’ll likely encounter two types: The first style features metal prongs coming out of a metal base, which are pushed through the tape and clamped down (here’s an example from Amazon). The second style features H- or U-shaped rounded metal bits (for bottom and top stoppers, respectively), and these are applied by sliding them onto the tape and simply clamping them down (here’s an example from Amazon)
How to make a zip stopper using fabric tabs:
Uses
- Creating a neat finish on both the top and the bottom ends of a zipper, eg. when making zipper pouches and bags.
Supplies
- Your zipper of choice, cut to size
- Two small squares of fabric (about 2” squares should work for most zippers)
- Sewing machine
- Matching all-purpose polyester thread
- Hand sewing needle and thread (optional)
Step-by-step instructions:
- If you’re sewing a fabric tab at the top: Bring the two sides of the zipper together at the top, and sew them closed using a hand-sewn whip stitch or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. This step will ensure that the two sides stay together in the next steps.
- Fold your small fabric square in half, so that the wrong sides are touching. Make a crease, and unfold. Next, fold each raw edge in to meet the central crease. Finger press.
- Place the folded fabric tabs over the top and bottom end of the zipper. The central crease should be touching the raw end of the zipper tape. Pin or clip them into place – I personally find using little fabric clips much more comfortable for this step. Make sure there are no plastic or metal teeth left in the section of the zipper tape that is enclosed in the tabs.
- Using a straight stitch with a length of 3 – 3.5 mm, edgestitch the tabs down about ⅛” (3 mm) away from the folded edge of the fabric. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
- Alternatively, you can use a hand sewing needle and all-purpose polyester thread to slip stitch the folded edges to the zipper tape on both the front and the back. This will give you a cleaner look, and you can even do this without removing the excess metal or plastic teeth / stoppers from your zipper.
- Once you’re happy with the stitching, cut the excess width off from the fabric tabs for a clean finish.
Tips:
- To minimize the fraying at the raw edges on the sides of the fabric tab, you can cut your square piece of fabric on the bias instead of on the straight grain.
How to make a zipper stopper by melting the plastic teeth:
Uses
- Creating top stoppers on chunky molded plastic zippers with closed or open ends.
Supplies
- A chunky / molded plastic zipper
- A lighter or a matchstick
- Scissors
Step-by-step instructions:
- After removing the excess plastic teeth, place one of the removed teeth into the uppermost teeth of the zipper. The two pieces should lock together nicely.
- Using a lighter or a matchstick, carefully melt the top interlocked teeth together. Once the plastic is warm, wait for a little bit and carefully tap the new top stopper piece with your fingers to smooth it out.
- Please be extra careful in this step, as the plastic can get extremely hot and you may burn your fingers if you touch it when it’s too hot. There’s also the risk that your zipper will catch fire since you’re working with synthetic materials. You’ll only need to heat the plastic for a few seconds before it becomes malleable, so don’t wait for it to completely melt or it’ll be too hot to touch.
How to stop the cut zipper ends from fraying?
Burning and melting the ends
If you’re using a zipper with a polyester or synthetic zipper tape, then you can quickly run a lighter or a match through the raw ends to melt the material and harden it. Be careful when doing this both for safety purposes and for aesthetic purposes, as leaving the fire on the tape for too long may cause it to burn and harden into a black bead.
Fray check
You can apply some fray check or other liquid seam sealant to the raw ends to stop them from fraying.
Hide the ends in a seam
Depending on your project, you may not need to finish the ends at all. If the top of your zipper will be enclosed within a seam (like the top of the fly zipper which gets hidden in the waistband) then you can just leave the raw edges as they are.
Fabric / ribbon tabs
For a cleaner but slightly bulkier finish, you can also sew a small rectangle of fabric, a piece of ribbon, or twill tape to the raw ends of the zipper tape.
Use pinking shears
You may have noticed that some zippers will come with zigzag-shaped ends. This is achieved with pinking shears which minimize fraying by cutting little zigzags into the fabric. You can just use your own pinking shears to cut the excess off and finish the ends in one go.
Quick Q&A’s:
When to shorten a zipper from the top?
If you want to preserve the bottom stoppers / mechanism, then it’s a good idea to shorten the zipper from the top. You can shorten all types of zippers from the top, including nylon coil, invisible, chunky molded plastic, metal, and separating zippers made out of all materials.
When to shorten a zipper from the bottom?
If you want the top stoppers to remain intact and look as neat as possible, then I recommend shortening the zipper from the bottom.
Keep in mind that you won’t be able to shorten separating zippers from the bottom, but you can use this method on any other type of zipper including nylon coil, invisible, chunky molded plastic, and metal zippers.
How to shorten a zipper on a jacket or hoodie?
- Use a seam ripper to remove the stitching that attaches the existing zipper to the jacket. The zipper should come off now.
- At this point, pay attention to the order of construction as you’ll need to reverse it in the next steps when you’re sewing the zipper back on.
- Cut the excess fabric off the jacket or hoodie.
- Shorten the zipper to the new length. You’ll most likely be dealing with a separating zipper, so you’ll need to shorten it from the top. Depending on the material of the teeth, you’ll need to choose the appropriate method of shortening the zipper and creating new top stoppers. An easy way to achieve a clean and professional look at the top is to install new metal stoppers at the top.
- Once you make sure the zipper and the jacket are the same length, re-sew the zipper to the jacket.
- Hem the jacket, or sew the existing waistband, hem band, or facing back on to finish the bottom edge.
What happens if you sew over a zipper?
Most domestic sewing machines can handle sewing over nylon coil or invisible zippers. However, if you’re using a chunky plastic zipper or metal zipper, or a very fine needle, then you run the risk of breaking your needle if it hits the zipper teeth. To avoid this, slow down as you approach the teeth and stop just before you reach them. Using the hand wheel of your sewing machine, slowly turn it towards yourself to manually walk the machine over the teeth. Here you may need to increase your stitch length or manually move the fabric to avoid hitting the teeth with the needle.
What to read next:
- How To Neatly Sew a Separating Zip with a Facing or Lining
- Zipper 101: Different Types of Zippers, Parts, & Sliders
- 25 Zipper Pouch Sewing Patterns for Makeup, Pencils… (15 FREE)
This article was written by Nisan Aktürk and edited by Sara Maker.
Nisan Aktürk (author)
Nisan started her sewing journey in December 2019 and already has a fully handmade wardrobe. She’s made 50+ trousers, 20+ buttoned shirts, and a wide array of coats, jackets, t-shirts, and jeans. She’s currently studying for her Sociology Master’s degree and is writing a thesis about sewing. So she spends a lot of her time either sewing or thinking/writing about sewing! Read more…