Sewing corners is a skill you’ll use all the time. I’ve described how to sew the most common types of corners (outward right angles, inward corners, sharp corners, and collars). Plus 9 tips for getting sharp points. Hint: my favorite method for getting sharp corners is tip no. 5 (pull the corner out using a thread tail).
Contents list:
- How to sew outward right-angled corners
- How to sew inward corners
- How to sew narrow pointed corners
- How to sew corners on collars
- How to make sharp points
- Fold and press the seam allowances
- Use a hemostat or tweezers
- Take a diagonal stitch at the point
- Sew a diagonal line at the corner
- Pull the corner out using a thread tail
- Use a hand sewing needle to pull the corner out
- Use a pressing template
- Reduce the stitch length at the corner
- Working with heavy weight fabrics
How to sew outward right-angled corners:
Uses:
- Pillow cases
- Pouches, cases and bags
- Cuffs
- Waistbands
- Lined patch pockets
- Lined pocket flaps
- Welt pockets
- Hems with facings
- Belts
- Linings
- Aprons and pinafores with facings or linings
- Face masks
Step-by-step instructions:
Step 1: Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together and draw your stitching line. I like using a small quilting ruler and some tailor’s soap to transfer the seam allowance lines to my fabric.
Step 2: Using a straight stitch, start sewing at the beginning of the marking. Slow down as you approach the corner. When you reach the intersection of your seam allowances, stop with your needle down. Lift your presser foot, and pivot the fabric 90 degrees. Continue sewing down the other seam allowance marking.
Step 3: a) Trim the corner at 45 degrees, and then trim two wedges off the corners. b) (Optional) Grade the seam allowances by trimming one layer to half its original width. This will help with bulk reduction.
Step 4: Turn the piece right sides out. Poke out the corner using a point turner or a similar tool. Make sure you don’t use something too sharp or push too hard to avoid damaging the corner.
Step 5: Give the piece a good press to set the corner into place and make the two layers lie flat.
How to sew inward corners:
Uses:
- Skirt or jacket vents
- Square necklines with facings or linings
- Lined patch pockets
- Welt pockets
Step-by-step instructions:
Step 1: Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together and draw your stitching line. I like using a small quilting ruler and some tailor’s soap to transfer the seam allowance lines to my fabric.
Step 2: Using a straight stitch, start sewing at the beginning of the marking. Slow down as you approach the inward corner and when you reach the corner, stop with your needle down. Lift your presser foot, and pivot the fabric. Continue sewing down the other seam allowance marking.
Step 3: a) Snip into the corner to release the seam allowance. Make sure you get as close as you can to the stitching, or else you will see some puckering when you turn it right side out. Be careful not to cut into the stitching. b) (Optional) Grade the seam allowances by trimming one layer to half its original width. This will help with bulk reduction.
Step 4: Turn the piece right sides out.
Step 5: Give it a good press so that the corner is sharp and the piece is flat.
Tips:
Since you need to clip very close to the stitching lines in the corner, it can be a good idea to strengthen the existing stitching by going over it twice, or reducing the stitch length in the corner area. Alternatively, you can apply a small square of interfacing to the corner before stitching it.
How to sew narrow pointed corners:
Uses:
- Sharp and pointy collars
- Scrunchie bows
- Tie belts
- Waistbands
- Bandanas
- Decorative items
Step-by-step instructions:
Step 1: Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together and draw your stitching line. I like using a small quilting ruler and some tailor’s soap to transfer the seam allowance lines to my fabric.
Step 2: Using a straight stitch, start sewing at the beginning of the marking. Slow down as you approach the corner. When you reach the intersection of your seam allowances, stop with your needle down. Lift your presser foot, and pivot the fabric. Continue sewing down the other seam allowance marking.
Step 3: a) Trim the seam allowances at the tip close to the stitching line. b) (Optional) Grade the seam allowances by trimming one layer to half its original width. This will help reduce bulk.
Step 4: Turn the piece right sides out. Poke out the corner using a point turner or a similar tool. Make sure you don’t use something too sharp or push too hard to avoid damaging the corner.
Step 5: Give the piece a good press to set the corner into place and make the two layers lie flat.
How to sew corners on collars:
Uses:
- Shirt and jacket collars
- Lapels
Step-by-step instructions:
Step 1: Place the two collar pieces right sides together and draw your stitching line. I like using a small quilting ruler and some tailor’s soap to transfer the seam allowance lines to my fabric.
Step 2: Using a straight stitch, start sewing at the beginning of the marking. Slow down as you approach the corner. When you reach the intersection of your seam allowances, stop with your needle down. Lift your presser foot, and pivot the fabric. Continue sewing down the other seam allowance marking.
Step 3: a) Trim the corner at 45 degrees, and then trim two wedges off the corners. b) (Optional) Grade the seam allowances by trimming one layer to half its original width. This will help reduce bulk. If you choose to grade the seam allowances, make sure you trim the seam allowance on the under collar. This is so a ridge or impression doesn’t show through on the right side of the collar.
Step 4: Turn the piece right sides out. Poke out the corner using a point turner or a similar tool. Make sure you don’t use something too sharp or push too hard to avoid damaging the corner.
Step 5: Give the piece a good press to set the corner into place and make the collar lie flat.
How to make sharp points (9 tips):
Now that you know the basics of how to sew different types of corners, you might find yourself striving for a cleaner, sharper result. While simply trimming the corners off is a useful technique to know, there are different methods you can try to get the best possible results for your fabric and project.
I tested 9 different techniques for getting sharper points on a collar corner, which can be challenging to get sharp. Out of the following techniques, I found tip no. 5 to be the best method for getting the sharpest, neatest result with minimal effort.
Tip 1: Fold and press the seam allowances
Description:
In this technique, the seam allowances are left untrimmed, and then folded in and pressed into place, forming an extra layer of internal support and structure for the corner to look sharp.
Uses:
This is a good method for light to medium weight fabrics and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Sew the two pieces of fabric as usual, pivoting at the corner.
Step 2: Don’t trim the corner off just yet. You can still grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Step 3: Fold the seam allowances in at the stitching lines and press into place.
Step 4: If you’re sewing a right-angled corner, you won’t need to trim the excess off. If you’re sewing a narrower angle (like most shirt collars or narrow corners) you will need to trim the seam allowance that is hanging over.
Step 5: Turn the piece right sides out and give it a good press.
Tip 2: Use a hemostat or a pair of tweezers
Description:
This is a variation of the first technique, and it was popularised by David Page Coffin. Rather than folding and pressing the seam allowances, you secure the folded in seam allowances by using a hemostat, some locking tweezers, or even regular tweezers. The folded-up corner is locked into place with the tool of your choice, and then the piece is turned right sides out.
Uses:
This is a good method for light to medium weight fabrics and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and sew the two pieces of fabric as usual, pivoting at the corner.
Step 2: Don’t trim the corner off just yet. You can still grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Step 3: Fold the seam allowances in at the stitching lines and grab the corner using a hemostat or some long tweezers (like the pair of tweezers that often come with sergers/overlockers).
Step 4: If you’re sewing a right-angled corner, you won’t need to trim the excess off. If you’re sewing a narrower angle (like most shirt collars or narrow corners) you will need to trim the seam allowance that’s hanging over.
Step 5: Turn the piece right sides out with the tool still grabbing the corner, and remove the tool once everything is laying neat and flat. Give it a good press.
Tip 3: Take a diagonal stitch at the point
Description:
In this method, rather than pivoting at the corner, a small diagonal stitch is taken right at the point of the corner.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and sew up to the corner.
Step 2: Rather than pivoting at the corner, sew diagonally across the corner. The number of stitches you take here depends on the weight of your fabric. If you’re working with lightweight fabric, a single stitch should be enough. A medium-weight fabric will likely require 2 stitches, and a heavy-weight fabric will need 3 stitches.
Step 3: Continue sewing along your marked line.
Step 4: Trim the seam allowances as usual, clipping the corner.
Step 5: Turn the piece right sides out, poking the corner out using a point turner or any other pointy object. Give it a good press.
Tip 4: Sew a diagonal line at the corner
Description:
This is a variation of the previous method. Rather than sewing a diagonal stitch (or 2, or 3) across the corner, the piece is sewn as normal, pivoting at the corner. Then an additional diagonal line is sewn, intersecting the existing corner. It gives extra control over the placement of the diagonal stitch at the corner, and it’s easier to fix if you’re not satisfied with the placement of the line. An additional benefit is that the extra line of stitching will help prevent the fraying, so you might want to try this technique if you’re working with a fabric that’s prone to fraying.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and sew the two pieces of fabric as usual, pivoting at the corner.
Step 2: Sew an additional line of stitching that diagonally crosses the corner. Depending on the weight of your fabric, 1 to 3 stitches should land inside the first stitching lines. You can turn down your stitch length to 1.5 or 2 to be more precise.
Step 3: Trim the corner off as normal.
Step 4: Turn the piece right sides out and give it a good press.
Tip 5: Pull the corner out using a thread tail
Description:
In this technique, a piece of thread is trapped between the stitches right at the point of the corner, and you tug on the thread to pop the corner out after turning the piece right sides out.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and start sewing the two pieces of fabric as usual. Reduce your stitch length by 0.5 mm as you approach the corner.
Step 2: One stitch before you reach the exact corner, cut a length of thread. With your needle down, place the thread between the two layers of fabric. Position it so that it’s touching the needle, and pull both ends back and away.
Step 3: Sew one more stitch and leave your needle down. With this stitch, you should have trapped the extra thread inside a single stitch and also reached your pivot point. Pull the thread tail that is to the right towards yourself and then to the left, so that you’re holding both ends of the thread with your left hand.
Step 4: Pivot the fabric and continue sewing along your marking. Make sure you keep the thread tail out of the way of the stitching.
Step 5: Trim the seam allowance, being careful not to cut the thread tail off.
Step 6: Turn the piece right sides out. Gently pull on the thread tail. The thread that is trapped at the corner stitch will help you pop the corner out.
Step 7: Give the piece a good press.
Tip 6: Use a hand sewing needle to pull the corner out
Description:
This is a variation of the previous method. Rather than trapping the thread tail during the initial stitching, a hand sewing needle is used to form a thread tail and the corner is pulled out using the tail.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric and outward corners.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and sew the two pieces of fabric as usual, pivoting at the corner.
Step 2: Trim the seam allowance using your preferred method.
Step 3: Using a strong thread, thread a hand sewing needle. With the piece still wrong sides out, anchor the thread exactly at the point of the corner.
Step 4: Once the thread is anchored at the corner, put your needle into the right side of the piece exactly at the corner. You can now leave a long tail and take the needle off.
Step 5: Turn the piece right sides out, and gently pull on the thread tail to pop the corner out.
Step 6: Press to set the corner into place.
Tip 7: Use a pressing template
Description:
A pressing template can be used alongside the other techniques we went over to help shape the corner.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric, and it can be combined with other methods.
Instructions:
Step 1: Trace your pattern piece to some thin cardboard, and remove the seam allowances. Cut it out to form your pressing template.
Step 2: Sew, trim and turn the corner out using your preferred techniques.
Step 3: Slide the cardboard pressing template in, making sure the corners are matched perfectly.
Step 4: Press the piece so that the fabric conforms to the shape of the cardboard template. Take the template out and continue sewing as usual.
Tip 8: Reduce the stitch length at the corner
Description:
This is another technique that can be used alongside the other methods we went over. It involves reducing the stitch length as you approach the corner to increase precision and maximize the durability and strength of the corner.
Uses:
Suitable for all weights of fabric and all types of corners, and it can be combined with other methods.
Instructions:
Step 1: Mark your stitching line and start sewing using the appropriate stitch length for your fabric. Try 2 mm for lightweight fabrics, 2.5 for medium weight fabrics, and a 3 or 3.5 for heavy weight fabrics.
Step 2: As you approach the corner, reduce your stitch length by 0.5 to 1 mm.
Step 3: After the corner is sewn, turn the stitch length back up to its original length.
Step 4: Trim, turn and press the piece following your preferred method.
Tip 9: Working with heavy weight fabrics
When working with really heavy weight fabrics like wool coatings, there is a limit to how sharp you can get the corners to look. In this case, you might want to slightly round the corners on your pattern piece for a slightly different but cleaner look.
What to read next:
- How to Sew Neat 3D Boxed Corners
- How to Gather Fabric (7 Ways)
- How to Prepare Fabric Before You Cut & Sew: 5 Critical Steps
This article was written by Nisan Aktürk and edited by Sara Maker.
Nisan Aktürk (author)
Nisan started her sewing journey in December 2019 and already has a fully handmade wardrobe. She’s made 50+ trousers, 20+ buttoned shirts, and a wide array of coats, jackets, t-shirts, and jeans. She’s currently studying for her Sociology Master’s degree and is writing a thesis about sewing. So she spends a lot of her time either sewing or thinking/writing about sewing! Read more…